As previously noted, China is quite large, and traveling around requires a substantial amount of time. Even Hunan Province, where I lived for four years, is the size of a small European country. It took me until the first full summer vacation to make it to 凤凰 Fenghuang an 德夯 Dehang, two popular draws in the northwest of the province, as visiting them required an overnight slow train to Jishou and a transfer to a minibus for each one. Both, however, were worth seeing at least once.
The Phoenix city of Fenghuang sits perched on either side of a wide, slow, cool, clear river that I even happily swam in a bit upstream (an unusual find in and of itself). There were stepping stone bridges filled with ladies washing vegetables and laundry, connecting sidewalks filled with art students sketching the surrounding wooden houses on stilts (in my mind, somewhat akin to Chilean palafitos). It was pleasant to take a boat ride in a small wood plank vessel down the river, stop for a drink in a cafe with a balcony, and wander the back alleyways up to parks with scenic views, but the main waterfront promenades were crowded with tour groups and tacky souvenir shops (some even displaying signs that the Japanese aren't welcome, in pure patriotic style). It didn't seem like anyone really lived there anymore, preferring the more modern and soulless district outside the ticket zone. This all, of course, means that things in the Old Town were over priced and not unique, and things struggled to be high-quality. In most other places, this carnival atmosphere abates if you stay overnight, with crowds gone and shops closed, but not in Fenghuang - there are enough nightclubs and light displays to keep people taking selfies until the wee hours of the morning, preferring a Disneyland vibe to historical authenticity. The lights over the river did make for nice pictures, but it was quite difficult to imagine the sleepy river town reported to be legendary. No ghosts left in Fenghuang.
In many ways, Dehang was the opposite. This quiet Miao hamlet was all but devoid of people, a quiet, peaceful retreat straddled by tall limestone peaks threaded with hiking trails. The rickety wooden guesthouse I stayed in was probably the cheapest thing I saw in all of China, and surprisingly comfortable - 50 RMB for a private room with shared bath, no AC but a window with a gorgeous view - and no wifi/reservations possible. I read a book about George Orwell's time in Burma, and ate river shrimp in the downstairs kitchen overlooking the stream. Kids bathed in the water while their mothers picked edible creatures out of the rocks. In Dehang, I became quite fond of eating small (whole) fried crabs on a stick, bite-sized and unnecessary to shell, perfectly spiced and just a little crunchy. I never found them so well-done anywhere else in China. It was here that I became accustomed to eating the Chinese hot dog on a stick, much better pan-fried than straight out of the wrapper like in train-style fangbian mian (ramen noodles), and the only other street food option. I passed solitary artists on my solitary hikes past flowing streams and trickling waterfalls, past ducks waddling in small rice paddies, past fallen boulders and up to high karst ledges with incredible overlooks. I nearly covered every available path, save for one that was too muddy at too sharp a drop over a cliff. I couldn't be sure of my footing and there was no one else around, so I turned back. In all, though, Dehang was a wonderful place to unwind and recharge. It would be lovely to see again in another season.
Please note that, if you plan a future trip to Fenghuang and/or Dehang, it makes sense to do both of them together. Each could be a lovely weekend trip, but they are remote - from anywhere in Hunan (and elsewhere else, by extension), transportation options ensure a lot of hassle, and repeats of it if you don't visit both places together. Plan on at least five days.
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